How to plant: It’s crucial to start with large, healthy transplants. Look for plants with dark green vegetation in 4 in. or larger pots.
Space plants 18 in. apart. Snip the lowest side branches and the bottom set of leaves off of your transplants, and dig a hole deep enough for each plant to be buried up to the next lowest set of leaves. (Tomatoes set new roots out of the buried stem, so planting them this way gives them the opportunity to develop a large root structure very quickly.)
Add 1⁄4 cup of balanced fertilizer to the hole and mix with a trowel. Set the plant in the hole and fill it back in with soil.
When to plant: In most regions, tomatoes are best planted in late spring, mid- to late May in many areas.
How much to plant: Tomato yield is variable, but you’ll likely harvest 4–8 lb. per plant (up to 20 lb. in ideal conditions). We recommend starting with 2–6 plants for your first year.
When to fertilize: Before planting, and at 3 and 6 weeks after planting. Use 1⁄4 cup balanced fertilizer per plant, or liquid fertilizer.
General care: Prune and train your tomatoes to their trellis (see above). After the plants have started ripening their first fruits, you can consider reducing the amount you water them. Water-stressing your tomatoes will reduce the size of the tomatoes and the overall yield of the plants, but can encourage ripening and improve flavor.
Pests: Tomato hornworms, aphids, slugs, nematodes.
Diseases: Early and late blight, anthracnose, Verticillium and Fusarium wilt.
Container suitability: Good. Use 5 gal. pots or larger, or anything at least 12 in. in. deep.
When and how to harvest: Tomatoes taste best when ripened on the plant. They’re ready when fully red (or yellow, orange, or purple) and slightly soft to the touch. Harvest by cutting the stem just above the tomato, or by breaking it off with your hand. Tomatoes also ripen well off the vine if held at room temperature. This is useful for large tomatoes that don’t fully ripen on the vine, and in the fall when temperatures aren’t high enough to ripen the fruit outdoors.
Storage and preservation:
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Counter: Tomatoes should be stored at 60°–70°F. A basket on the counter is perfect. Avoid the fridge unless you like mealy, tasteless tomatoes!
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Freezer: You can puree fresh tomatoes, drain the excess liquid, and freeze them immediately, or you can cook the puree to the desired thickness and then freeze.
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Dried: Sun-dried tomatoes.
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Canned: Tomato sauce, salsa, whole or sliced tomatoes, paste.
How to Prune tomatoes
Pruning helps ensure high yields of fruit and greater ripening success, especially with indeterminate types.
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It limits the overall number of tomatoes, so the plant can produce and ripen higher-quality fruits.
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It increases air circulation through the plant (which helps keep disease down) and improves sunlight penetration (which helps with ripening).
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Late-summer pruning reduces the production of late-season tomatoes, so that the plant has a better chance of ripening the existing fruit.
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Generally speaking, determinate tomatoes need considerably less pruning than indeterminate types.
The ideal tomato plant has between 1-5 main stems (called leaders), with single lateral branches radiating from each stem. We recommend pruning tomatoes a few times over the course of the season to keep them under control. Prune by breaking excess branches off with your fingers, or use pruning shears if branches are too large to break.
A. At transplanting time, check the crotch of each branch. Break off any new branch growing from the crotch. Also, break off any forming flower buds.
B. Continue to check branch crotches each week and break off new branches. Also, break off any flower buds that appear for 2–3 weeks after transplanting.
C. Tie each leader to a string or other support. If the plant develops other large stems that compete with the leaders you’ve selected, cut them off.
